Spuntature e Faggiole

W

hen I see the delivery truck from Westerly Meat Packing Co. in the parking lot at Universal Food Store of Noank, I consider it to be a good sign. When I walk into the store to find my friend Frankie, laying in a supply of "country-style" spare ribs, I consider it to be serendipity. And when I've laid in my own supply of "country-style" spare ribs, my thoughts turn to Tuscany, and Spuntature e Fagioli, spare ribs and beans.

Tuscans work miracles with beans. The humble cannellini, white bean, or borlotti, cranberry bean, become enobled in dishes like Zuppa di Fagioli, Tuscan Bean Soup; the legendary Ribollita, "Re-boiled" soup; or as antipasti like, Gamberi e Fagioli, Shrimp with Beans, or Fagioli con Calamare alla Griglia, Grilled Squid with Beans. Of course, a little transcendent extra-virgin olive oil dosen't hurt any of these dishes either.

Italians use the term spuntature to refer to either "country-style" spare ribs, or pork chops. (Although the more generic term for chops of any kind is costolette.) And the pork ribs they commonly use, come from the belly side of the pig. While we don't typically butcher pigs the same way here, "country-style" ribs—which come from a pig's back, and near the shoulder—come closest. I feel confident, though, if a Tuscan farmer had some pork shoulder sitting in the larder, La Signora would have no problem substituting that for the ribs.

Sausages also find their way into spuntature e fagioli from time to time; again, depending on the season and the contents of the larder. And it goes without saying, sausages and beans are a magical combination on their own.

I understand we think of dried beans as a fall or winter ingredient, but spare ribs and beans warms this Tuscan heart any season of the year.

Spuntature e Fagioli
Spare Ribs and Beans

Ingredients:

For the Spare Ribs:

Extra-Virgin olive oil
2 Lbs "Country-style" pork spare ribs
2 Cloves garlic, peeled, and finely chopped
1 Cup dry red wine
2 Tbs. Tomato paste dissolved in 2 Tbs. water (or red wine)
1 28 oz. Can, Italian plum tomatoes (preferably San Marzano)
Salt & freshly-ground black pepper

For the Beans:

1 Medium yellow onion, quartered
1 Carrot, peeled, and roughly chopped
1 Stalk celery, washed, and roughly chopped
4 Tbs. Flat-leaf Italian parsley
2 Cloves garlic, peeled
4 Tbs. Olive oil
1 Lb. Dried cannellini, great northern or Navy Beans
1 Sprig fresh rosemary, leaves only
4 Fresh sage leaves, finely chopped
Salt & freshly-ground black pepper
Flat-leaf Italian parsley (for garnish)

Preparation:

Heat a sauté pan large enough to hold the spare ribs over medium-high heat, then add enough olive oil to film the bottom. Carefully add the ribs, and cook until they've browned well on both sides; approximately seven minutes per side.

Drain the rendered fat from the sauté pan, then add the garlic, shaking the pan constantly, to avoid burning. Turn the heat to high, then add the wine. When the alcohol has boiled off, about two minutes, add the tomato paste and the plum tomatoes, breaking them up with the back of a fork as they go in.

Bring the pan to a boil, then reduce the heat to a slow simmer and cook for two hours, stirring occasionally. It may be necessary to add water from time to time to maintain a reasonable consistency.

While the spare ribs are simmering, turn your attention to the beans:

Place the onion, carrot, celery, parsley, and garlic in the bowl of a food processor and pulse ten times for about one second each pulse.

Heat a soup pot over medium-high heat, then add the olive oil. Add the chopped vegetables to the oil, lower the heat slightly, and cook, stirring occasionally, for eight to ten minutes; until they're well blended, softened, and slightly caramelized.

Add the beans and enough water to cover by about one inch. Add the rosemary and sage, then season with the salt and freshly-ground black pepper. Bring to the boil, then lower to simmer and cook, partially covered, for one to one and a half hours, until tender. Drain in a colander and reserve.

When the spare ribs are done, return the beans to the soup pot, add the spare ribs and tomato sauce, and cook at a low simmer for about thirty minutes. Taste for salt and pepper and add to your taste if necessary.

To serve:

Place one spare spare rib in each of four plates, serve some beans to the side, then spoon about a quarter cup of sauce over the beans. Finally, garnish each plate with a sprinkling of the flat-leaf Italian parsley.

Serves four.

Technorati tags:  Spare Ribs, Italian Recipes, Skip Lombardi