Bistecca alla Pizzaiola

O

ne of the very few problems I've had living here in southeastern Connecticut has been an unpredictable supply of fresh herbs at the local mega-stores. And while my own basil, thyme, sage, rosemary, and nepitella, are growing apace in my new garden, I was grateful when one of my new friends stopped by over the weekend with a large plastic bagfull of fresh oregano. It goes without saying, I began to think about Salsa Pizzaiola, Pizza maker's tomato sauce, right away. Fresh oregano is sine qua non for Salsa Pizzaiola. And other than pizza, what better use for Salsa Pizzaiola than Bistecca alla Pizzaiola, Steak, Pizza Maker's-Style?

I wrote in La Cucina dei Poveri about my great uncle Emanuel visiting our summer cottage in Old Saybrook, CT., invariably bringing with him, a few steaks that he, my grandfather, and my great uncle Louie would turn into il miracolo, the miracle, as my uncle referred to Bistecca alla Pizzaiola. And my partiality for steak treated so kindly has remained unflagging since.

While a Pizzaiuolo Napoletano, Neopolitan Pizza Maker, was likely to have been the first person to have combined steak with tomato sauce, the reason is unclear. Except perhaps, that the steak in question might have been less palatable without additional flavoring. And of course, that flavoring would have come from the sauce for pizzas.

The "red sauce joints" here in America typically serve Bistecca alla Pizzaiola with pasta, but in Italy, the traditional accompaniment is puré di patate, mashed potatoes.

Note: You can make the sauce in advance, and refrigerate until ready to assemble the dish. Simply warm the sauce in a sauté pan, and simmer the cooked steak in the sauce for approximately five minutes before serving.

Bistecca alla Pizzaiola
Steak, Pizza Maker's-Style

Ingredients:

For the sauce:

3 — 4 Tbs. Extra-virgin olive oil
2 Cloves garlic, peeled and thinly sliced
1 28 oz. Can diced Italian plum tomatoes (preferably San Marzano)
4 Tbs. Fresh oregano, finely chopped
4 Tbs. Flat-leaf Italian parsley, finely chopped
1/2 tsp. Crushed red pepper flakes
Salt & freshly ground black pepper
4 Tbs. Flat-leaf Italian parsley, finely chopped

For the steaks:

Extra-virgin olive oil
2 N.Y. Strip steaks (approximately 1/2 Lb. each)
Salt & freshly ground black pepper
1/2 Cup dry red wine

Preparation:

Heat a large sauté pan over medium-high heat, then add the oil. Add the garlic, and sauté for approximately one minute. Remove the pan from the heat and add the tomatoes and their juices.

Return the pan to the heat, and add the oregano, parsley, and red pepper flakes. Season with salt and pepper, reduce the heat, and simmer gently for approximately twenty minutes, until the sauce has thickened, and the extraneous liquids have cooked off.

When the sauce is nearly done, heat another sauté pan over high heat and add enough olive oil to cover the pan bottom. While the oil heats, season the steaks on both sides with salt and pepper.

Place the steaks in the pan, and cook for four minutes on each side (for medium-rare). Resist the temptation to disturb the steaks as they cook in order to get the best caramelization. Remove the steaks from the pan, cover loosely with aluminum foil, and allow the steaks to "rest" for five to ten minutes.

Meanwhile, return the pan to the heat, and add the red wine. Cook, scraping up any browned bits of meat from the pan bottom, until the liquid has reduced by approximately half. Add the reduced wine to the sauce, and stir to combine.

Slice the steaks crosswise, on a slight bias, and add the slices to the sauce. Simmer for approximately five minutes.

To Serve:

Divide the steak slices and sauce equally among four dinner plates, and garnish with the chopped parsley. Serve with mashed potatoes, and perhaps a green salad.

Serves four.

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